This document serves as an informational guide on how to print on various surfaces. This list will be updated periodically as we gather more data. If your experience differs with any surfaces listed, or if you’ve printed on one not listed and would like to give us your results, we would highly appreciate that. You may contact us with your feedback at support@thewallprinter.com or post your findings on the TWP Community Forum.
Aluminum
Aluminum such as signs or doors seem to have no problem bonding with UV ink. It holds up well under intense heat, weather, abrasion, and cleaning solutions. We recommend first cleaning the surface very well with alcohol before printing. Please allow your print to sit for 24 hours before exposing it to the elements. You may also spray the final print with a clear polyurethane, if you would like. Aluminum is prone to static and must be wiped down prior to printing with alcohol and an anti-static sheet such as an unscented dryer sheet.
Note: it is hard to remove a print without damaging the aluminum surface, so plan accordingly.
Our best results, when testing how the print held up to abrasion and cleaning: surface primed with 100% isopropyl alcohol and printed immediately, UV protectant water-based polyurethane sprayed immediately, and allowed to cure 24 hours before abraded or cleaned.
Painted Aluminum
See Aluminum.
Our best results, when testing how the print held up to abrasion and cleaning: surface primed with 100% isopropyl alcohol and printed immediately, UV protectant water-based polyurethane sprayed immediately, and allowed to cure 24 hours before abraded or cleaned.
Painted Aluminum Foil
Painted Aluminum foil, such as textured floor stickers used in stores prints fairly well as long as there are no folds or bends in the foil prior to printing. We recommend letting the print sit for 24 hours before exposing it to the elements or abrasion. We also recommend a layer of polyurethane.
Our best results: tightly secure, clean with 70%+ isopropyl alcohol, wipe with anti-static liquid or cloth, print immediately
Polypropylene Plastic
Polypropylene plastic can be printed on, but does not hold up well to heat, weather, abrasion, or cleaning solutions. If you choose to print on this, please clean the surface very well, allow the print to sit for 24 hours before exposing to the elements, and seal with a coat of polyurethane. Polypropylene plastic is also prone to static and must be wiped down prior to printing with alcohol and an anti-static sheet such as an unscented dryer sheet. primer being allowed to cure for 1 hour before printing, polyurethane sprayed over the print immediately after curing, and the entire thing curing outside for 48+ hours
Our best results, when testing how the print held up to abrasion and cleaning: primed with 100% isopropyl alcohol, allowed to dry for 1 hour before printing, UV protectant water-based polyurethane sprayed over the print immediately after print, and allowed to cure for 48+ hours.
PVC
PVC plastic can be printed on, but does not hold up well to heat, weather, abrasion, or cleaning solutions. If you choose to print on this, please clean the surface very well, allow the print to sit for 24 hours before exposing to the elements, and seal with a coat of polyurethane. PVC is prone to static and must be wiped down prior to printing with alcohol and an anti-static sheet such as an unscented dryer sheet.
Our best results: wipe down with anti static liquid or cloth, surface primed with 100% isopropyl alcohol and printed immediately, UV protectant water-based polyurethane sprayed immediately, allowed to cure for 24+ hours.
ABS Plastic
ABS plastic can be printed on, but does not hold up well to heat, weather, abrasion, or cleaning solutions. If you choose to print on this, please clean the surface very well, allow the print to sit for 24 hours before exposing to the elements, and seal with a coat of polyurethane. ABS plastic is prone to static and must be wiped down prior to printing with alcohol and an anti-static sheet such as an unscented dryer sheet.
Our best results: wipe down with anti static liquid or cloth, surface primed with 100% isopropyl alcohol and printed immediately, UV protectant water-based polyurethane sprayed immediately, allowed to cure for 24+ hours.
Window Blinds
A non porous window blind such as one made of wood works really well with minimal preparation needed. Please be wary of the strings that connect the blinds. The printhead may have trouble adjusting around them and get caught. Also note that the strings will cause a line in your print that may be noticeable if they are moved. Plastic window blinds work as well, but tend to weigh less. The movement of the printhead may cause the blinds to sway. You may want to secure them somehow. Blinds can also be prone to static and must be wiped down prior to printing with alcohol and an anti-static sheet such as an unscented dryer sheet.
Our best results: secure blinds to a flat surface by letting hang naturally and taping the side edges down. Lower print speed to 1 or 2 to account for Auto adjustment over blind strings. Print with blinds tightened in the direction the client intends to have them sit most of the time; image will not be seen in other direction.
Painted Wood
Painted wood such as doors seem to have no problems bonding with UV ink. Take note before printing whether your printhead is in danger of running into any divots or malformations in the wood.
Our best results: sand down any large malformations, as the texture will show through in the print.
Plastic-based Vinyl
Vinyl prints can be tricky depending on the type of vinyl. Rolls of vinyl work, but need to be taped down securely so that there aren’t inaccuracies in the print. Thick vinyl sheets are prone to static and must be wiped down prior to printing with alcohol and an anti-static sheet such as an unscented dryer sheet.
Our best results: secure edges tightly to eliminate bumps or movement, wipe down with anti static liquid or cloth and print immediately.
Glass
UV ink bonds well to glass that is not exposed to heat. Printing on glass that stays between 40 and 80 degrees and is not in direct sunlight should work well. When glass heats, it expands and the ink is not able to keep its bond to the surface. Warpage occurs and opens up the underside of the print to collect water from weather and humidity. The print will continue to deteriorate from there. A coat of polyurethane only delays this by a couple of days. We do not recommend printing on glass that is exposed to the elements. For glass indoors, clean well with alcohol and allow your print to sit for 24 hours to fully bond to the glass. We do not recommend exposing indoor prints to water or cleaning solutions.
Our best results, when testing how the print held up to abrasion: primed with 100% isopropyl alcohol, allowed to dry for 1 hour before printing, UV protectant water-based polyurethane sprayed over the print immediately after print, and allowed to cure for 48+ hours.
Our best results, when testing how the print held up to cleaning: surface primed with 100% isopropyl alcohol and printed immediately, UV protectant water-based polyurethane sprayed immediately, allowed to cure for 48+ hours. A print on glass that is exposed to abrasion will not hold up to any liquid exposure; the liquid will get between the surface and ink, causing bubbling.
Cement Bricks
The main aspect to be wary of when printing on cement bricks is the printhead’s distance. Please check that your printhead has enough time to make its automatic adjustments to avoid scratching on the bricks. You may want to adjust your printhead speed to 1 or 2 to allow it enough time.
Our best results: if outdoors, print at night, in shade, or on a less sunny day with minimal wind. Lower print speed to 1 or 2.
Painted Cinder Block
See above note about Auto adjustment. Note that if the cinder block is painted a light color and is outdoors, it will reflect the light from the sun onto your printhead and may cause some of the ink within it to dry. We recommend printing at night if this is the case.
Our best results: if outdoors, print at night, in shade, or on a less sunny day with minimal wind. Lower print speed to 1 or 2.
Unpainted Cinder Block
See above notes about Auto adjustment and light colors.
Our best results: if outdoors, print at night, in shade, or on a less sunny day with minimal wind. Lower print speed to 1 or 2.
Stucco
See above notes about Auto adjustment and light colors.
Our best results: if outdoors, print at night, in shade, or on a less sunny day with minimal wind. Lower print speed to 1 or 2.
Paper
Paper can be printed easily as long as all sides are secured. Note that some types of paper will absorb the ink more than others; this can be used to your advantage for different effects. Also note that movement of the paper from wind or otherwise may cause inaccuracies in the print.
Our best results: Secure all edges tightly to eliminate movement
Drywall
Drywall works really well and is a great material for beginners. Note that the outer surface of drywall is usually a type of paper; see above.
Our best results: sand down any large malformations, as the texture will show through in the print.
Primed Drywall
Primed drywall is a great material for wall printing.
Our best results: sand down any large malformations, as the texture will show through in the print.
Painted Styrofoam
Some types of styrofoam do not hold on to ink well and may make the print blurred or even start to dissolve. Other types, such as the painted styrofoam faux brick exterior found at many hardware stores are great for printing on and useful for showing clients the abilities of your wall printer. As with all uneven surfaces, make sure your printhead will not scratch on the surface at any point.
Our best results: wipe down with anti static liquid or cloth, print immediately. Make sure ink is being cured entirely and does not have time to soak into the board.
Core board
This refers to a sort of foam board with a plastic outer shell. Core board can be printed on easily but is prone to static and must be wiped down prior to printing with alcohol and an anti-static sheet such as an unscented dryer sheet.
Our best results: wipe down with anti static liquid or cloth, print immediately.
Canvas
Canvas is an excellent surface for printing. Be sure to secure all edges and keep tight when printing so that the final product is not malformed.
Our best results: secure edges tightly to eliminate bumps or movement.
Painted Canvas
See above.
Our best results: secure edges tightly to eliminate bumps or movement.
Foam Board
The outer paper layer of foam board may cause the print to be absorbed slightly. Foam board prints are sometimes not as detailed or crisp as prints on non-porous boards.
Our best results: not recommended.
Nitrile
Nitrile is very easily corroded by UV ink and is not recommended.
Our best results: not recommended.